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The one without backstage is usually cheap, depending on city - about the same as a u2.com membership plus a GA. No membership is needed for these, and far cheaper than the 250 seats.
That was in Europe, something tells me it won't be the case in Chicago, NYC, Boston, Pasadena and a few other US cities, I expect the bidding to get redonkulous even for plain old red zone.
 
That was in Europe, something tells me it won't be the case in Chicago, NYC, Boston, Pasadena and a few other US cities, I expect the bidding to get redonkulous even for plain old red zone.

Yeah, they might end up at the London or Dublin-like prices. At least the people with the really deep pockets will go for the backstage option or VIP packages, and leave the mere seat for others. Two shows in some cities will help keep the price down. Charlottesville will probably go for around face value, so I'll do it there and maybe DC too.
 
Yeah, they might end up at the London or Dublin-like prices. At least the people with the really deep pockets will go for the backstage option or VIP packages, and leave the mere seat for others. Two shows in some cities will help keep the price down. Charlottesville will probably go for around face value, so I'll do it there and maybe DC too.

DC will be very expensive, Id be shocked if Charlottesville is much more than the starting bid
 
If anyone does go for the backstage tour package, be careful how you bid. I absentmindedly hit "bid on all," thinking my bid price was for one backstage package and one standard Red package. Not quite. A few minutes later, I got a nice email stating that I was outbid on the backstage tour, but my (fairly pricey) bid was transferred to the regular Red Zone experience.

Craptastic. I need to pay more attention :(
 
Yes, please, everyone: BE CAREFUL how you bid. Bid low, as low as possible, AND MAKE SURE YOU ONLY BID ON ONE OR THE OTHER PACKAGE. If you've got tons to spend, bid on the Backstage. If you're on a budget, bid only for the normal Red Zone. Then only go up by small increments when you absolutely have to. Don't ruin it for the rest of us with a 'hedge bid'. Too many of them will raise the stakes unnecessarily. But if enough people bid as low as possible, the tickets will sell for as low as possible. I keep telling people to keep their bids low and they keep raising them, thinking they are going to lose out. Be patient. There still is the general sale on Monday don't forget. And for some cities, second shows to be announced which further dilutes the pool. The auction doesnt end till well after the general sale so use the auction as a backup plan if you fail Monday am. If everyone panics now and raises their bids unnecessarily, we'll all lose out.
 
OUCH:doh: unlucky IMove. That never crossed my mind and sounds like a nasty trap. I had never done a TM auction before and it was pretty stressful. Was expecting massive sniping in the last minute that never came.

Very surprised the RZ tix didn't go for more in the UK, but maybe GA-mentality fans with cash to blow are a rare breed..
 
Was expecting massive sniping in the last minute that never came.

Very surprised the RZ tix didn't go for more in the UK, but maybe GA-mentality fans with cash to blow are a rare breed..

Lesson: don't panic. There's loads of time left. Not only that, but additional shows to be announced. Be smart about it and you'll save money and so will everyone else.
 
OK, I think you're right, I just saw the hightest prices and thought those were based on the actual biddings. To be honest, I have no idea how that thing works. But 97 Euro I think I'd pay :hmm:
 
Yes, please, everyone: BE CAREFUL how you bid. Bid low, as low as possible, AND MAKE SURE YOU ONLY BID ON ONE OR THE OTHER PACKAGE. If you've got tons to spend, bid on the Backstage. If you're on a budget, bid only for the normal Red Zone. Then only go up by small increments when you absolutely have to. Don't ruin it for the rest of us with a 'hedge bid'. Too many of them will raise the stakes unnecessarily. But if enough people bid as low as possible, the tickets will sell for as low as possible. I keep telling people to keep their bids low and they keep raising them, thinking they are going to lose out. Be patient. There still is the general sale on Monday don't forget. And for some cities, second shows to be announced which further dilutes the pool. The auction doesnt end till well after the general sale so use the auction as a backup plan if you fail Monday am. If everyone panics now and raises their bids unnecessarily, we'll all lose out.

Gabe on the one I'm looking at it says "Bid on All" or "Group 1", so how can I select JUST the RZ and NOT the backstage option? Should I wait until after the general sale to bid? Also, when you enter a bid is that your MAX bid or just what you bid right now? Like if you lose can you bid again? I'm so confused!
 
Gabe on the one I'm looking at it says "Bid on All" or "Group 1", so how can I select JUST the RZ and NOT the backstage option? Should I wait until after the general sale to bid? Also, when you enter a bid is that your MAX bid or just what you bid right now? Like if you lose can you bid again? I'm so confused!

Select "Bid on all" and don't bid as high as the backstage price and your bid is for the regular red zone.
 
Gabe on the one I'm looking at it says "Bid on All" or "Group 1", so how can I select JUST the RZ and NOT the backstage option? Should I wait until after the general sale to bid? Also, when you enter a bid is that your MAX bid or just what you bid right now? Like if you lose can you bid again? I'm so confused!

I should have clarified that. Bid on all, but only bid like $120 or so. Bid low. It will automatically bump you down into Group 2 at that price and then you carry on from there. You can up your bid right on up till the end of the auction, that's why I say for us obsessives who will watch it, it makes sense to stay as low as possible for as long as possible. Don't hedge, cause it drives the price up.
 
Gabe on the one I'm looking at it says "Bid on All" or "Group 1", so how can I select JUST the RZ and NOT the backstage option? Should I wait until after the general sale to bid? Also, when you enter a bid is that your MAX bid or just what you bid right now? Like if you lose can you bid again? I'm so confused!

I'm pretty sure you can't select just the RZ package, but that bidding lower than the minimum for the backstage automatically puts your bid in that group. I think it's pretty stupid how they set those up and makes it needlessly confusing. Ideally you'd pick a group and simply bid. I bid for Chicago yesterday, so everyone else please don't bid :D
 
OK. Does this thing proxy bid? I'm just used to eBay where I put in my max price and walk away.

It does but I'm suggesting, only suggesting, that it would be in everyone's best interests NOT to use a proxy bid system but to watch it carefully. If someone has a better theory, I'm all for it. I'm just trying to make sure we get them for decent prices, really.
 
Ultimately, it's my own fault for not reading the fine print, but I'm still left with the impression that that was pretty sneaky. Too bad I can't retract my bid . . .
 
DC will be very expensive, Id be shocked if Charlottesville is much more than the starting bid

I don't think it will be too bad, especially because it's a Tuesday night. So far NJ is the only stadium above the starting bid of $115. Waiting until a 2nd show is added for the 4 cities so far will definitely yield a lower price. With Amsterdam, the first auction finished really high but the second auction finished low.
 
K, I'll wait to put in a bid.

I'm not sure that's the best route either, as you might just miss out on a low price (the tickets are awarded by date/time recieved so a low bid now is better than a low bid at the last minute, if there are any even left) I just meant don't enter your max just yet. Bid at the lowest and watch it carefully.

I mean, I have no real inside info, I'm just going by what I see happening on it. I think it's at $125 right now..
 
I'm not sure that's the best route either, as you might just miss out on a low price (the tickets are awarded by date/time recieved so a low bid now is better than a low bid at the last minute, if there are any even left) I just meant don't enter your max just yet. Bid at the lowest and watch it carefully.

I mean, I have no real inside info, I'm just going by what I see happening on it. I think it's at $125 right now..

I thought the same about date/time received, but then, for the issue of raising the bid, is the new 'priority' for the date/time the new acceptable bid is received?! I'm an auction newbie and am confused :huh:
 
I thought the same about date/time received, but then, for the issue of raising the bid, is the new 'priority' for the date/time the new acceptable bid is received?! I'm an auction newbie and am confused :huh:

Well I imagine the priority is highest bid for that block of tickets, for sure. Then date/time received.

All I'm saying is let's say there are 1000 tickets to be auctioned. At first, no matter what you bid, the opening bid was still $115. I know this because that's how it was till this morning.

Ok, so that seems to indicate that until all 1000 were bid on, you could still bid and potentially get a ticket for $115. So now it's at $125 and we know that all 1000 tickets have been bid on for at least $125 each or that to beat the latest bids, you have to go higher than $125. I also know of some people who have long bid over that amount, and yet I'm still winning at $125. So that seems to prove my theory.

Let's predict that 500 bidders say omg and up their bids. There will still be 500 bidders, likely based on when they bid ie the earliest $125 bidders, who are still "winning" at $125 even though 500 others went above $125.

When the auction ends, I think what would happen is those 500 that panicked will pay more and the first by date and time $125 bidders will end up winning at $125. However: if you don't bid until the end, you can't be part of that group, if you see what I mean, you'll likely end up having to overbid the latest high bid or the latest low bid (not sure which but logic says the latest recieved lowest bid) in order to win.

:shrug:

Just for reference, here's why I drew those conclusions, the Auction Terms:

If you re-bid in an Auction, then Ticketmaster will use the time at which you placed your latest re-bid as your bid time, not the time at which you initially placed your bid or any other intervening bid times. For example, if you initially bid at 2:00, later submit a re-bid at 3:30 and a finally submit a re-bid at 4:15, then the time Ticketmaster will use when determining whether you have a winning bid will be the 4:15 re-bid time. If you re-bid in an Auction, then your previous bid in that Auction will no longer be valid.

Bids are ranked first by the amount bid per ticket. In case of a tie, bids are ranked by the time that the bids were placed, with earlier bids for the same amount receiving priority over later bids for the same amount. If other bidders later submit higher bids, your bid may be re-assigned to a lower Ticket Group or you may receive no tickets at all, depending on the quantities of tickets in those bids and in the Ticket Groups. If this happens, you may wish to re-bid with a higher price.
 
Well I imagine the priority is highest bid for that block of tickets, for sure. Then date/time received.

All I'm saying is let's say there are 1000 tickets to be auctioned. At first, no matter what you bid, the opening bid was still $115. I know this because that's how it was till this morning.
........

:shrug:

Just for reference, here's why I drew those conclusions, the Auction Terms:
I think all that you say makes sense indeed!
So I guess then I should wait til it tells me I'm no longer winning to up my bid, if I'm understanding you right (I'm in a similar situation as you, I think, showing as 'winning' at 125, even though it is now up to 130)?
cheers and thanks for taking the time to explain!
 
I think all that you say makes sense indeed!
So I guess then I should wait til it tells me I'm no longer winning to up my bid, if I'm understanding you right (I'm in a similar situation as you, I think, showing as 'winning' at 125, even though it is now up to 130)?
cheers and thanks for taking the time to explain!

Exactly. It will tell you when you're no longer winning and that will be the best indication that, by virtue of when you initially bid, $125 is no longer going to cut it. So then you just go up by $5 until it tells you you are winning again. Don't flood it in other words..
 
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