Ali Thread # 7

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Niamh_Saoirse

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Students Market Clothing with Conscience

B-schoolers from Miami University of Ohio team with socially-conscious fashion brand Edun for a lesson in helping Africa through commerce

by Kerry Miller


A new pilot program at Miami University of Ohio is combining two big trends in the world of business education—social entrepreneurship and experiential learning—and adding one very big name to that mix: Bono.

The initiative, dubbed Edun Live on Campus, is a business partnership between a group of Miami University students and Edun, the clothing company co-founded last year by activist Ali Hewson, Bono's wife, and designer Rogan Gregory—along with a little help from Hewson's rock star husband.

As a "socially conscious" clothing company, Edun says its mission is "trade, not aid"—creating sustainable employment in the developing world, and Sub-Saharan Africa in particular. Its primary fashion line sells in upmarket department stores and specialty shops such as Saks Fifth Avenue (SKS) and Anthropologie. A sub-brand, Edun Live, was created as a higher-volume business-to-business arm selling blank T-shirts that are "100% African," from the organic cotton they're made with to the manufacturing. Bono's band, U2, uses Edun Live blanks for their concert tees.

School Spirit
The Miami University students buy the blank shirts from Edun Live for about $4 per shirt, have them screen-printed with custom designs, and sell them to student groups and local businesses for about $10 each—a few dollars more than similar T-shirts sourced locally would cost. The group's profits, which average $1 per shirt, go to fund social entrepreneurship activities at the school, including a proposed student trip to visit Edun's factory in Africa.

A Miami alumnus provided the initial $50,000 of seed capital to get the project up and running, and Edun executives are serving on Edun Live's board of directors. So far the students have sold about 2,000 shirts, and they hope to roll out their business model to campuses across the country later this year.

In doing so, they're getting a living lesson in social entrepreneurship and innovative solutions to social problems, rather than just creating profits. Enthusiasm for the approach has been growing for some time at the MBA level, though it's still just catching on among undergraduate B-schoolers.

Expanding the Field
Over the past three years or so, undergraduate courses, centers, and clubs devoted to social entrepreneurship have been popping up at schools like University of California at Berkeley, Duke, and Stanford. Last fall, New York University launched the Catherine B. Reynolds Foundation Program in Social Entrepreneurship, an interdisciplinary program for junior and senior undergraduate students, and Wake Forest University is now offering a new interdisciplinary minor in Entrepreneurship and Social Enterprise.

At Miami University, things got off the ground last fall when Assistant Professor Brett Smith helped launch a new Center for Social Entrepreneurship within the Farmer School of Business, devoted to furthering teaching, research, and outreach related to the topic. He also created and taught the school's first undergraduate course on social entrepreneurship, which by next year Smith hopes to expand to a three-course sequence

Edun chief executive Christian Kemp-Griffin says the company had already been looking for a way to penetrate the college market when he got an e-mail in the middle of last year from Smith, who is now the project's faculty adviser. For Edun, Kemp-Griffin says the partnership is an ideal exercise in brand-, consumer-, and volume-building. "It's getting people involved in the issues by being a part of a business, and I think that's a really motivating way for people to do it—it's not hearsay, it's not marketing push, it's actually happening."

Not Where But How
Of course, using students to spread awareness of social justice issues is not without precedent. The antisweatshop movement that began in the late 1990s was fueled largely by activists on college campuses. Since then, companies like T-shirt maker American Apparel have taken the idea of conscious consumption (or "ethical fashion") decidedly more mainstream (see BusinessWeek.com, 9/27/06, "Green Threads for the Eco Chic").

In fact, Kemp-Griffin admits that in terms of their approach, Edun Live and American Apparel—which makes its own clothing in Los Angeles—aren't that different. He says both are selling a philosophy, "trade in Africa" or "sweatshop-free, made-in the USA," as much as a T-shirt. "It's just that the reason to buy is different," he says.

And is that enough to keep college kids interested? For Edun's part, Kemp-Griffin says that while he hasn't seen the details of the Miami group's business plan yet, the company is committed to taking an active in role in helping them succeed," so it isn't just, 'okay, my fraternity bought a T-shirt, we've done our bit.'" He says it'll be up to both parties to figure out new ways to promote the business and attract and retain customers, "…anything that a normal business would need to do to stay alive and grow and prosper."

Filling a Need
Smith, for one, is optimistic, citing preliminary market research conducted by his students that 92% of Miami undergrads buy at least four screen-printed T-shirts per year, and 72% of them said they would pay more for a T-shirt that supports a cause. "As long as college students need T-shirts, we will continue to have a sustainable business," Smith says.

And in the short-term, he adds, the project has already done a lot to build awareness at the university. "Everyone stereotypes Miami students as living in a bubble and not caring, and I think we've proven that stereotype wrong," says senior Andy Mitchelides, president of Edun Live on Campus. "I think we've given hope to people that you can make a difference, even if it's on a small scale."

Click here for a slide show of fashion brands that are marketing themselves as "socially conscious."
 
Niamh, could you give us a link for this article?

I'd like to see which newspaper it was in. (Great article)


Thanks. :wink:
 
bonoalitheaterls0.jpg
 
I may be an idiot, but do the edun shirts really only cost $4 to make? Or maybe some of the startup cost of the project go to cover some of the shirts? If they are charging $40 for the One Edun shirts, they must be making quite a bundle on each shirt. I'm guessing it all goes back into Africa or to grow the business?

Yea Miami! I hope more campuses will join in. I must have bought at least 40-50 screen printed shirts when I was in college, as did most of my friends (of course there was a shirt for everything and every event)...what a market to tap into!
 
2orangecats said:
I think it's $4 for a blank shirt. So there aren't any designs, logos, etc on them - so maybe that's why there is a pretty low price? :shrug:

Wish we had some news or pics from Miami U? :hmm:


Yes, it is about $4.00 for a plain white tee and close to $5 to a plain black tee.

And you are correct - there was a profit margin on the EDUN ONE tees.



Ten dollars went to ALAFA - the organization in Lesotho that provides ARV's to textile workers that need them and that helps to provide some funding to these workers to take care of their families. :up:


Ten dollars went into the manufacture and printing of the shirt.




The twenty dollars left over went to pay the workers, provide child care and health care for the workers and families and upkeep the factory.


So maybe $10 was pure profit on the EDUN ONE tees - but Ali and Bono always said that they wanted businesses to see that they could be socially responsible to their workers and still make a profit. :yes:
 
Went to the lecture at Miami this afternoon.

It was somewhat shorter than I'd hoped, but interesting nonetheless. The professor (I assume) who is involved in the Edun Live project introduced Ali and Christian Kemp-Griffin, the Edun CEO. Gave a nice bit of background on Ali and her other work for those not aware.

Ali spoke first for a bit - not hugely in depth, but more about background, mostly things we've heard before I think.

Christian did most of the talking - also showed a video about the company (I think it's on the edun website as well). His talk was interesting, discussing their business model - how it is now two-tiered: Edun, the high-end fashion piece which will grow slowly, but develop the skill set; and Edun Live, which is business-to-business, designed to develop volume more quickly, but with a limited product line (blank tees to be sold to organizations). He also gave some insight into how they approach decisions about what moves to make vs a more traditional business approach, and some hint that they have other initiatives in mind.

At the end, they allowed time for questions from the audience - Ali participated more in that piece as well.

The audience was virtually all students from what I could tell (I am far removed from being a student!). I heard that 1 or 2 professors instructed their students to go.

As someone who's been working in the business world for a number of years, I did chuckle a bit at some of the questions - just in the way that when you're a student you think things can be done so quickly and easily - when the real world doesn't work quite like that! I thought Christian and Ali did a nice job of answering those questions.

Couple of funny bits re Ali -
1) She said something about how they'd just been talking and she had commented that if she'd know this (Edun) would be so much work, she'd have just stayed home and had 4 more children!

2) Someone asked if the company was or would be public. Ali & Christian kind of laughed and explained that they have a whopping 21 employees currrently -so are far from going public. But he said they have 4 offices - NY, Dublin, Paris and London (I think). Ali said something - I didn't quite catch it - but something to the effect that at least one of those may be a home office at that!

3) I thought she seemed a bit nervous as they were waiting to start - kind of biting her lip and fidgety - it was cute. She looked lovely - all in black. I didn't take pictures - didn't really seem appropriate in my opinion, although I had planned on it. (No offense to the 1 or 2 who did snap a few - just didn't feel right to me.)

The only other thing I can think to mention was that they had evidently been there a day or so meeting with the people involved in Edun Live, so I think this talk was just a small piece for the larger university community.

(Oh yea - I did settle a dispute between a few kids behind me on whether Ali really calls him Bono or Paul in real life...)
 
u2grace said:
Went to the lecture at Miami this afternoon.
3) I thought she seemed a bit nervous as they were waiting to start - kind of biting her lip and fidgety - it was cute.
Hee, cute.. So Bono's not the only one with a touch of stage fright.

Interesting to read more about Edun. I wish I coud've been there. Thanks for the that, u2grace :yes:
 
Well I just got back.. I didnt get to see the 1st part of the event with Ali talking.. due to a bad accident on the interstate and too much shopping at gap.. but they said they would post it on the web so cool..

Ali did seem like she was sorta bored during Christian's slide show.. like she played with her long black coat and other things.. she did smile quite a few times..

I loved the comment she made about the staying home and having 4 more kids LOL

(if you cant tell I am extremely tired)..

um so I tried to take a few pics.. but the room didnt really allow for it.. and it made it hard for the zoom to work..so what I have I will post later.. I have to go in and see what I can do to fix them..

It was also nice meeting another friend and Edgette..:wink:

oh and I ended up with one of the shirts..a few bands.. and the sign they had in the hall for the event...hehe and an interview for the Associated Press
 
Thanks for the reports, U2Grace and tanner_sis! :hug:

You both summed it up better than I could have!

The event was amazing, definitely worth the 5 hour drive. :up:
 
u2grace said:
Went to the lecture at Miami this afternoon.

It was somewhat shorter than I'd hoped, but interesting nonetheless. The professor (I assume) who is involved in the Edun Live project introduced Ali and Christian Kemp-Griffin, the Edun CEO. Gave a nice bit of background on Ali and her other work for those not aware.

Ali spoke first for a bit - not hugely in depth, but more about background, mostly things we've heard before I think.

Christian did most of the talking - also showed a video about the company (I think it's on the edun website as well). His talk was interesting, discussing their business model - how it is now two-tiered: Edun, the high-end fashion piece which will grow slowly, but develop the skill set; and Edun Live, which is business-to-business, designed to develop volume more quickly, but with a limited product line (blank tees to be sold to organizations). He also gave some insight into how they approach decisions about what moves to make vs a more traditional business approach, and some hint that they have other initiatives in mind.

At the end, they allowed time for questions from the audience - Ali participated more in that piece as well.

The audience was virtually all students from what I could tell (I am far removed from being a student!). I heard that 1 or 2 professors instructed their students to go.

As someone who's been working in the business world for a number of years, I did chuckle a bit at some of the questions - just in the way that when you're a student you think things can be done so quickly and easily - when the real world doesn't work quite like that! I thought Christian and Ali did a nice job of answering those questions.

Couple of funny bits re Ali -
1) She said something about how they'd just been talking and she had commented that if she'd know this (Edun) would be so much work, she'd have just stayed home and had 4 more children!

2) Someone asked if the company was or would be public. Ali & Christian kind of laughed and explained that they have a whopping 21 employees currrently -so are far from going public. But he said they have 4 offices - NY, Dublin, Paris and London (I think). Ali said something - I didn't quite catch it - but something to the effect that at least one of those may be a home office at that!

3) I thought she seemed a bit nervous as they were waiting to start - kind of biting her lip and fidgety - it was cute. She looked lovely - all in black. I didn't take pictures - didn't really seem appropriate in my opinion, although I had planned on it. (No offense to the 1 or 2 who did snap a few - just didn't feel right to me.)

The only other thing I can think to mention was that they had evidently been there a day or so meeting with the people involved in Edun Live, so I think this talk was just a small piece for the larger university community.

(Oh yea - I did settle a dispute between a few kids behind me on whether Ali really calls him Bono or Paul in real life...)

thanks for the report :up:

And what did you tell the kids: She calls him neither Bono or Paul, but "Bay-buh"? ;)
 
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