Of the Earth and Edun
It’s hard to make it in the fashion world, even without adhering to strong environmental standards, but Hélène Bisnaire and Richard Ziff’s company Of the Earth is the exception. The pair first sold their wares in 1992 at music and craft festivals. Now, Of the Earth clothing can be found at stores as diverse as City Sports and Whole Foods. According to Ziff, Of the Earth sells millions of dollars worth of merchandise each year (with prices ranging from $14 for a grocery bag to $80 for a hemp/silk dress) and has been growing at an annual rate of 40 percent.
“Although we’ve been doing this for years, it seems that organic apparel has quickly become accepted in the last 18 months,” Ziff says. “It’s exciting to know that it’s finally here and here to stay. There’s improvement in every aspect in production and the organic thing is hip now. But it’s something that’s beyond a trend. It’s a lifestyle decision. People who eat organic food taste the difference, and they like the way these clothes feel. It becomes a lifelong commitment.”
Eco-fashion recently got a big boost in exposure when the singer Bono, his wife Ali Hewson and designer Rogan Gregory (of the all-organic Loomstate clothing line), joined forces to develop the Edun brand (Edun is “nude” spelled backwards, as well as a play on the biblical reference). Edun’s organic cotton t-shirts ($55 to $58) and sweatshirts ($163) made in Tunisia and Peru constitute 20 percent of the line, and are selling at such high-end stores as Barneys New York and Saks Fifth Avenue. Not surprisingly given Bono’s second job campaigning for economic justice, Edun has a firm commitment to a fair and humane workplace.
Eco-friendly fashions are new to the store, says Saks’ senior fashion director Michael Fink. “Edun’s had a great reception and it’s selling quite amazingly,” says Fink. “It could inspire a major movement.”
Although budget-conscious shoppers may be shocked by Loudermilk and Edun’s high sticker prices, New York City-based fashion model Summer Rayne Oakes, a coordinator for the Organic Portraits project (
www.organic portraits.org) and a designer of an eco-fashion curriculum in conjunction with Recyclebank (
www. ecofashion101.com) puts it in perspective: “Implementing ‘eco’ in mainstream high-fashion labels is a necessary step for inspiring celebrities, consumers and design chains.”
According to Oakes, “Lower-end and lifestyle brand lines will be quick to emulate their fashion-forward predecessors with more affordable garments.” Oakes points to ecologically conscious (and affordable) lines already underway by American Apparel, Timberland, Whole Foods, Nike and Eddie Bauer.
Oakes adds, “There are a number of roads that need to be crossed before major labels begin embracing environmentally and socially conscious fabrics.” She says more groundwork needs to be done on the supply-side of organic fibers and she says there also needs to be more investment in partnerships to build the sustainability movement in the fashion industry.
Bono modestly admits his role has more to do with his celebrity status than his style (“I’m the man who brought you the mullet,” he joked). “Look, the world doesn’t need another fashion brand; we understand that. But we don’t think that this is just another one,” Bono explained at the Edun launch. “It’s different. At the very heart of it is the idea of four respects: respect for what your clothes are made of, respect for who is making them, respect for where they are made and respect for the people who are going to put them on.”
Not a bad endorsement of eco-fashion from one of the world’s biggest stars, who has inspired legions of fans to wear wrap-around sunglasses (and the aforementioned mullet), and who is also a nominee for the Nobel Peace Prize this year. Edun will, in fact, be making the concert t-shirts for U2’s next tour, which should put organic, fair-traded cotton on many, many backs.
JOEL GERSHON is a New York-based freelance writer.
http://www.emagazine.com/view/?2653
This article substantiates exactly what I've been trying to say all along.
EDUN was not created for a mass audience per se (although I'm sure they appreciate as many people buying their clothes as possible).
EDUN was created as a BUSINESS MODEL to show others in the garment industry that fair trade businesses ARE possible and CAN BE PROFITABLE. (Ali said that herself in all the pre-launch EDUN articles that were circulated, a lot of them right here in PLEBA)
From all the others that are now exploring the fair trade clothing line (like Whole Foods, Eddie Bauer, Timberland, etc), it's obvious that EDUN IS BEING SUCCESSFUL IN ITS MISSION - making it easier for others to enter the fair trade market and making it more fashionable amongst the buying public to ask for and to buy FAIR TRADE ITEMS.
And for that, Ali Hewson and everyone else at EDUN deserve our respect and admiration.