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Old 12-28-2002, 12:20 PM   #16
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Actually, you have to pay more for credit because every time you use your credit card, the business has to pay a small fee to process the card. Not $100 but if they don't take cards often, between the fee and renting the card swiping equipment, it gets expensive.

As for the fix itself, alot of it is labor especially if they mechanic is union. But being in the union also means you have to be trained thoroughly so more money now means less money later when you have to get it fixed again. I usually went to the dealership and paid the extra money to have them fix it because they knew my car better and knew how to fix it better than some random mechanic. And I never had a problem.
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Old 01-31-2003, 09:07 PM   #17
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mm so yeah. I went to get my front shocks checked today because my car has been making a weird squeeking noise in the front end for a while now. They checked the shocks and didnt see anything wrong with them so they decided to lubricate some stuff under there around the suspension.. bushings and what not. The noise is gone!! I cant believe after all these months all it needed was a little WD-40. Pretty honest guys if you ask me. They could have ripped me off but they knew that I knew about cars by the way I was talking to them so

However, they did notice that my rotors are fucked up. They've got grooves in the inside .. but the brake pads are still good. So I guess whoever put the brake pads on last put them on over my messed up rotors.

Estimate is $500. The rotors are like $138 a piece But I'm not going to do anything about it until I have to get new brake pads again.

Fords
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Old 01-31-2003, 09:10 PM   #18
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Old 02-01-2003, 02:34 AM   #19
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Thankfully my car is running good (knock on wood). But I do need to get my tires balanced...because the steering wheel shakes when I go faster than 60.
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Old 02-01-2003, 05:18 PM   #20
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Fords
Yeah, but have you seen the new mustang????
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Old 02-01-2003, 06:41 PM   #21
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Hey just wanted to see if I could lend a bit of help here, as I do alot of my own repairs and have also seen the good and bad in mechanics:

- there are a few main components to your brakes and here are the estimated prices I've gotten them for in my numerous expereiences with car repairs...(all prices CDN so USD will be significantly less Id imagine):

1. Brade pads - THESE are about $20 each (not rotors...). But you only get what you pay for. $20 pads you can expect to last for a year to two max if you drive in the city alot. And they tend to start squealing alot quicker. $40 pads, on the other hand, will last longer, run less risk of damaging the rotors, and will not begin squealing as soon, so depending on how long you intend to keep your car, it may be worth the investment.

2. Brake rotors - these as mentioned are the steel discs that the pads grab onto to stop you. If someone offers you rotors for $10, run the other way quickly... Seriously tho, rotors are in the $150-200 range. If you go ultra cheap, you will get rotors that may warp more easily than the more moderately priced ones. Warped rotors will cause your wheels to shake and shudder (unsafe at hwy speeds) and will reduce stopping capability as only parts of the pads can grip onto warped rotors. Again, you get what you pay for.

**TIP FOR SICY** ask your mechanic what type of rotors you have on there now...if were originally of decent quality and are not warped and simply have 'scores' or gouges, there may be an alternative to getting new ones, and that is *machining*. This is a process where a machine shop sets up the rotors on a lathe and remachines the surfaces to remove the scores. Most shops only charge $5-10 per rotor for this, plus the labour of putting them on and taking them off.

3. Rear Drums/Cylinders/Shoes - I cant remember how much these are again and noone is really commenting on them right now, so I'll just be general and say that usually once these go, they have to be replaced. The labour on them isnt too bad tho, usually less than front brake work for some reason.

4. Master Cylinder - this is where you keep your brake fluid topped up. It creates pressure thru the brake lines thru to the brakes. If this cylinder goes, it can be expensive. Depending on the age of your car, ie if its an older model, consider buying a rebuilt cylinder or getting one from a wreckers (more on the great buys you can get at a wreckers on another day, there are some disavantages too). You should check your fluid regularly. You should never really need to 'top up' the fluid if everything is working properly. If you find the fluid is low, there could be a leak in two most common places: the rear brake cylinders, or the brake lines.

Hope that helped. Having said all that, labour is up for grabs. Alot of mechanics sadly will see a rookie coming a mile away and try and take them to the cleaners. When in doubt get a second opinion, that usually helps.

Danospano also makes a good point about cash. It can be an incentive to do it cheaper. But consider the consequences carefully when dealing with a safety item like brakework. No reciept means a hard time proving your brakes were fixed by a reputable mechanic in the event of a brake failure/crash.
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Old 02-01-2003, 09:08 PM   #22
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**TIP FOR SICY** ask your mechanic what type of rotors you have on there now...if were originally of decent quality and are not warped and simply have 'scores' or gouges, there may be an alternative to getting new ones, and that is *machining*. This is a process where a machine shop sets up the rotors on a lathe and remachines the surfaces to remove the scores. Most shops only charge $5-10 per rotor for this, plus the labour of putting them on and taking them off.
The outside of the rotor can be "machined" because its not as bad as the inside.. but the insides have major grooves in them.
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Old 02-01-2003, 09:45 PM   #23
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If you're looking to get the job done, correctly, at a reasonable price, take it to your local dealer..ford, chevy, whatever type of car it is. The gas stations or the local corner shops will screw you every way they can. The dealerships get enough business in their shops that they don't have time to screw you over and they want your vehicle in and out asap because there is more people they need to help....I only know this because my dad is in this line of work and my car experiences have been completely hassle free after listening to his advice....plus I work for a company that leases cars and I deal w/ this sort of thing daily.
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Old 02-02-2003, 02:51 PM   #24
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Yeah but dealers charge you more.
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Old 02-03-2003, 03:41 AM   #25
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I like this thread. Not cos the pop chook is/was having car troubles....Car talk...



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Old 02-03-2003, 03:58 AM   #26
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I don't think it's the paying cash that is illegal, but the doing it cheaper if you pay them cash that's illegal, right? kinda like...

"ok, we do it for $200 if you pay us cash, $300 if you use credit or check"
i believe it all started in the 1970s with the popularity of credit cards. the main way they make their money is by charging a percentage of all sales to the businesses. visa and mc are the cheapest, which is why you see them accepted everywhere and discover less, and amex even less cuz they're the most expensive. but, the more expensive ones to the businesses tend to offer better rates to the consumers so it all works out in the end.

anyway, to give customers an incentive to use cash instead so they wouldn't have to pay the percentage, they'd charge more for credit cards, or less for cash. this obviously ticked off a lot of people, so they made either one (lowering cash sales or raising credit card sales) illegal.
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Old 02-03-2003, 08:32 AM   #27
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I believe here in Canada the most common reason for lowering the price for a cash transaction is for taxation reasons. No reciept or charge slip means it doesn't go into the shop's books and so less taxable income for the shop.
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Old 02-03-2003, 06:53 PM   #28
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Yeah but dealers charge you more.
I don't think they do. The smaller corner store/gas stations do because they don't get that much business as the dealers. Plus, they always find something else "wrong" with your car that a dealership may not. Like I said, the dealers get enough business that they don't need to do any thing to your car other than what's necessary.
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Old 02-03-2003, 07:48 PM   #29
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Well not where I live.
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