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Old 10-21-2008, 01:23 PM   #76
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Ziva can't get within a foot of Charlie when she is hyper. Your lucky with the chewing. Ziva just likes to chew on me.
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Old 10-21-2008, 09:56 PM   #77
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Congrats to the new pups Nikon and Gracie! Such cutie pies
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Old 10-21-2008, 10:14 PM   #78
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German Shepard puppies I have pics of my girl(from way back when), Molly. I should scan them.
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Old 10-22-2008, 06:36 AM   #79
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Hey Lies, I have a mate whose dog (from RSPCA - and the story could be that it was used to get dogs excited to fight each other - sorry, dont know proper name), but it looks cross between like Lab head and Staffy body. He has to make him wear a muzzle cause it would go for other dogs, but, would this guy have to go to training, and if not, is it possible to teach a dog, (not sure how old), to NOT walk far ahead - ya know, pull on the leash?

any tips?
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Old 10-22-2008, 10:40 AM   #80
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Mad, yeah the muzzle will only make it worse, doesn't address the actual issue. Most dog aggression really stems from fear. Being aggressive towards another dog is a quick way of making that dog go away. The muzzle could be part of the problem if the dog is fear-aggressive. The muzzle takes away his only real defense (as he sees it).

Anyway, in that situation I would combine using gradual desensitization to push back the trigger threshold with using positive methods to make the trigger a neutral or positive thing. Practically speaking, this would involve taking the dog to some area to work where for starters there would be ONE other dog, far in the distance. The aggressive dog would be praised and given treats while the other dog passes in the distance. If this goes OK, the other dog would move slightly closer, or maybe two dogs would pass by at the original distance (proofing involves both distance and the level of distraction which in this case would be the amount of other dogs present). So basically you want to help the dog to understand that other dogs are GOOD = getting treats. It's also a good time to introduce a "watch me" command, so the dog has an alternative behavior to perform. Often, being asked to perform an alternative behavior is incompatible with aggression and blocks that reaction. For example when Kenya is acting nervous I have her to simple tricks. It takes her mind off of whatever is making her nervous and boosts her confidence because she is earning rewards. It's important to GO SLOWLY. The dog must always be set up for success. That might mean starting in a deserted field with a small dog 100 yards away and doing that for a week. The aggressive dog should NOT be walked near other dogs until this problem is tackled. Every time he lunges on the leash at another dog it is reinforcing the aggressive reaction.

If it were my dog I would use clicker training. Have him read Click To Calm. It's all about using clicker training (and the methods above) to re-socialize aggressive dogs. Also in the UK you have Victoria Stillwell. We have her show on TV here, both the UK seasons and now a US season. It's called "It's Me or the Dog". There are several episodes where she works with dogs that lunge at other dogs. He can watch that show for some examples.
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Old 10-22-2008, 10:53 AM   #81
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yeah, see we have a UK show, The Dog Borstol, and he used the tip they suggested of like rocks in a bottle? so I think when dog lunges or just keeps on jumping on people (as he does ), he would use it. but he never said that it was successful.

Dont know that we can buy a dog clicker here. he had one time put up note to ask for dog walker who would walk his dog with theirs to get him used to walking with or near. the muzzle came about because he attacked a big alsation. so sounds like the upbringing, he is too used to it. however, I see what you mean about taking a dog's mind off. last night I was trying to settle him down and trying the ear-rub thing (does that ever work?), but no, just such a hyper wee dog. must try and get a wee photo.

but listen I appreciate what you wrote/your response.
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Old 10-22-2008, 10:58 AM   #82
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You can order clickers online, they are like 50 cents, so cheap.
Clicker Training only - more - www.canineconcepts.co.uk

I'm not sure how rocks in a bottle would be used, maybe as a noise aversion? The problem with that is that for a fear aggressive dog you have to actually CHANGE the reaction, not just correct it. Otherwise, you end up with a dog that is STILL aggressive, but less predictable.
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Old 10-22-2008, 10:59 AM   #83
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one more wee thing, you suggest a quiet place, yep there is a local park, so, with or without the muzzle on?


yep it must be like a distraction, I dont think it would be recommendable thou.




I just wonder is it too late to train the dog? I dont think so, but I know it would be weeks/lot of work.
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Old 10-22-2008, 11:14 AM   #84
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No, it's never too late. My in-laws said the same thing about their 11 year old Cocker and I trained him to "down" and click a button in ten minutes.

Yes I would go to a large park or field, set the dog up so that he has his attention. Have a friend walk a dog by FAR away. You want the dog to notice but not feel threatened enough to react. When he notices but does NOT react, praise and give treats. Do it over and over until the dog really doesn't care. Then move the dogs a few feet closer together and repeat. It will take weeks and months. I have a dog with some residual fear issues we have been working on for over a year.
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Old 10-22-2008, 11:15 AM   #85
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thanks Liesje
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Old 10-22-2008, 10:55 PM   #86
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mad1 View Post
Hey Lies, I have a mate whose dog (from RSPCA - and the story could be that it was used to get dogs excited to fight each other - sorry, dont know proper name), but it looks cross between like Lab head and Staffy body. He has to make him wear a muzzle cause it would go for other dogs, but, would this guy have to go to training, and if not, is it possible to teach a dog, (not sure how old), to NOT walk far ahead - ya know, pull on the leash?

any tips?
If there is any Staffy in it, the instinct to fight is deeply ingrained, but can be controlled. Lies is absolutely right, a muzzle will only intensify the problem and add to the insecurity and subsequent agression as the dog is essentially defenseless with it on.

You can use a Halti or Gentle Leader to prevent pulling, but it doesn't psychologically address the dog's dominant behaviour, it just makes it impossible. A choke or pinch collar can be helpful IF used correctly and safely and corrections are timed properly. Also, stopping the moment the dog pulls and not moving forward until it relaxes is a good method.. The dog learns it will get to move forward when the leash is slack and it's not charging ahead. Changing direction anytime the dog pulls is another option, because it lets it know that you're leading the walk. If you're leading, the dog pays less attention to distractions and more attention to you and what you want it to do next.

Also REGULAR!!! walks are critical. If the dog only gets exercise and socialization sporadically, of course it's going to go nuts anytime it gets to venture out. Pent up energy is an excellent precursor to aggression.
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Old 10-23-2008, 05:38 PM   #87
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Gracie Pics from today... (taken by the breeder)

she's a fuzzy wuzzy lil girl
















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Old 10-23-2008, 09:34 PM   #88
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Aw! Nice topline, lol. What a little chubkins!

Nikon is starting to look more like a dog and less like a fat sausage with a rat tail.









Today I hired a helper to come let him out and play with him mid-afternoon (I already go home for lunch).
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Old 10-24-2008, 10:39 AM   #89
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the new furkid pics! Keep posting them, girls.
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Old 10-24-2008, 11:30 PM   #90
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^ Yes! We need more puppy paws and puppy bellies Can't get enough..

If you haven't seen my blog, I posted new pics of the man 5 months old now:




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