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Old 09-04-2009, 01:21 PM   #721
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^These dogs where trained in Germany, apparently they are the best of the best in terms of their reliablity. They are police dogs, my Dad is a policemen now working in rail yards...
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Old 09-05-2009, 01:00 AM   #722
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There are good and bad trainers all over the world. Police dog is definitely a far more appropriate term though!
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Old 09-19-2009, 10:11 PM   #723
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gracie da mud dawg..

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Old 09-19-2009, 10:43 PM   #724
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Old 09-20-2009, 12:31 AM   #725
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OK, guys,

I have done everything they say on "It's Me Or The Dog" and "Dog Whisperer" to get Patches to behave on a walk. He loves walks, but last night I had to force him to sit on the sidewalk, sit behind him with my legs wrapped around the front of him and both hands on his collar to stop him from attacking a toy poodle he's never seen before. This was after an hour of being outside and only going half a block due to an easily-distracted and wicked-strong puppy and trying to make him not pull my arm out of its socket at the shoulder cause he has to sniff EVERYTHING and investigate every little noise and jump on me and do everything but just walk. I'm sure it'll get better as he gets older, but I go through this every week and he's not getting any better.

Help? My neighbor trains serivce dogs and she has the most easy-going beaucheron I've ever seen. I'm thinking if Annie and I take Riga and Patches for a walk together, we might get somewhere? Good idea?
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Old 09-20-2009, 09:01 PM   #726
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Reggo, have you been to any obedience classes yet? Some dogs just "get" the walk without much effort (generally dogs with lower drive and energy), but for most dogs, walking alongside the human at the human's (slow) pace is not at all natural and must be trained and proofed before you get a satisfactory result. He may mellow out as he gets older, but he may get worse without any intervention.

Nikon was very, very "dog reactive" (meaning he would bark, whine, howl, growl, and lunge at strange dogs) from about age 4mos - 10mos. During that time, I did a lot of work building our bond and communication so that the was more focused on me, and also a lot of training. I train dogs for competition but my dogs also need "regular" obedience training like walking calmly on a leash, obeying me when we are away from home, ignoring other dogs, etc. The more I trained Nikon how to behave in public, the less he cared about other dogs. Now we can pass strange dogs on the street and the most he will do is raise his hackles a bit but he passes by without any lunging or noise. Yesterday we started a new obedience class and he laid down next to a Basset Hound he's never seen before. Ironically the Basset owner said her dog is scared of other dogs and my dog used to want to attack other dogs, but they were lying with their heads down about 4 feet apart.

So anyway, some of the dog reactivity could be a phase, but if you don't intervene and move ahead with training the dog can get stuck in that phase or develop self-rewarding behaviors that make it worse. Most dogs get reactive at another dog out of fear/uncertainty. They think "OK if I make myself look really mean first, the other dog will just leave and I won't have to deal with my uncertainty." So say you walk past a dog and your dog is pulling, barking, carrying on and he continues to do this as the other dog passes and walks farther away. The dog has just been rewarded for his bad behavior which is what you don't want.

The first thing to do is always setup the dog for success. Do not give the dog the option of reacting to the other dog. If you see another dog coming, immediately turn your dog around and go the other way. Once the carrying on starts, it's almost impossible to correctly redirect the dog. We tighten the lead and hold onto the dog to maintain physical control but the tension is passing to the dog and the physical touch from the owner is actually interpreted as praise. If I didn't see the other dog soon enough and Nikon started a fit, I turned around and walked the other way, totally ignoring his fit even if I had to drag him away, and when we were far enough away for him to calm down on his own, then I sat down, pet him, and praised him for being calm and stopping the fit.

Anyway, as for the walking training bit, the best suggestion is to get with a good trainer. It's not so much to learn the method, but learn the psychology behind the method, and how to communicate with the dog. There are also a number of tools out there for "puller" dogs. I have a prong collar, a Gentle Leader head halter, and an Easy Walk no-pull harness. I would try the Easy Walk if your dog is reactive to other dogs. Reason being that with a prong or head halter, if the dog lunges for another dog, they will get "corrected" by the prong links or the halter being over the muzzle and might associated the negative feeling with the presence of the other dog, only making the problem of being uncomfortable around other dogs even worse. The Easy Walk harness is a front clip harness, so it won't injure the dog's head if he lunges hard, or pinch the neck like a prong collar. These are all good devices for gaining initial control of the dog, but the key is the real training that happens so that you don't need these as a crutch forever. I would also take some food or treats along and just randomly give the dog a treat from your hand anytime his head is near your left pocket (or whichever side you want him to heel on). If he's food motivated he will find out soon enough that pulling and going ahead to sniff = no treats and staying on pace with you = treats. Another thing people do is "make like a tree" and/or "penalty yards". Make like a tree is just that, if your dog pulls and ignores you, you stop and plant your feet. You *only* move forward when the dog is NOT pulling at you. At first this is very frustrating for you and the dog and it's not uncommon for someone to move half a block in over an hour, but the dog needs to learn that pulling is simply not acceptable. The penalty yards means that not only do you stop moving if the dog pulls, but you walk backwards and the dog has to move back and start over again at your side before going forward.

There's really dozens of good methods, but different ones work on different dogs. It's a matter of trying and being really patient and consistent.
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Old 09-20-2009, 09:03 PM   #727
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PS. I would not use Dog Whisperer methods on a dog that is reactive to other dogs. His methods are based on flooding and physical correction. These methods train the dog simply to submit to him, not actually train the dog or desensitize the dog to other dogs, which should be the ultimate goal (you want your dog to enjoy the walk, right? not just do it because you are forcing him). Also if you are unfamiliar with using flooding in training I would not go that route. It can make a dog much much worse and a reactive problem that was fixable can escalate to a dog that is truly aggressive and dangerous.
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Old 09-20-2009, 11:21 PM   #728
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Thanks for the advice, but it doesn't matter after all. My mom says she hates Patches and I have to get rid of him. He's too wild and I have no time to train him and we don't enjoy him. He's too big for our house and so he gets put in the backyard by himself, which causes him to be destructive cause he's a puppy and gets bored. When I bought him, we were told he wasn't going to get as big as he is. The only human interaction he gets is going outside or coming in and being put in his crate, being fed, and the half-hour or so after work when I'm exhausted at midnight, but I play with him anyway. That's not enough for him. I love him, but I also want him to be a good, happy dog. I can't give that to him, unfortunately.
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Old 09-29-2009, 09:48 PM   #729
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My new roommate just informed me that our neighbors are complaining that my dog cries ALL DAY. First, my old roommates never mentioned to me ever, in the 2 1/2 years I lived there that my dog did this. I could always hear her do it while I was on the way in after work, but I thought this was because she could hear me coming home. How can I fix this? I know she has separation anxiety, but the neighbors where I live now will not tolerate hearing her cry all day. I don't know what to do.
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Old 09-30-2009, 02:41 AM   #730
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I thought this pic could go here






sorry I don't have any advice for you clarity
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Old 09-30-2009, 08:15 AM   #731
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Quote:
Originally Posted by clarityat3am View Post
My new roommate just informed me that our neighbors are complaining that my dog cries ALL DAY. First, my old roommates never mentioned to me ever, in the 2 1/2 years I lived there that my dog did this. I could always hear her do it while I was on the way in after work, but I thought this was because she could hear me coming home. How can I fix this? I know she has separation anxiety, but the neighbors where I live now will not tolerate hearing her cry all day. I don't know what to do.
Where is she kept while you are gone?
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Old 09-30-2009, 10:30 AM   #732
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Originally Posted by Liesje View Post
Where is she kept while you are gone?
In my bedroom, with access to whatever she thinks she needs. Food, toys, the window (which only looks into the back yard). She's 10 years old (have had her for about 6 years) and has never been good in a crate, otherwise I'd consider that.
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Old 09-30-2009, 10:33 AM   #733
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Thanks that's what I was wondering. A lot of SA dogs do better in a crate or something den-like (it's like they don't know what to do with themselves with so much freedom), but probably not her if she is 10 and has not been acclimated to it.

Maybe some medication? I've tried a few things with Kenya (not for SA, for other anxiety and neurotic behaviors) and they are quite cheap. A month of dog prozac is $4!
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Old 09-30-2009, 10:38 AM   #734
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I was definitely thinking the medication route. If your dog only costs you $4 a month, mine should be practically free! She only weighs 5 pounds. I think I'll call the vet soon to see what we can come up with.
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Old 09-30-2009, 10:46 AM   #735
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Yeah no kidding! We still haven't found one that really works with Kenya's problems, but so far we haven't had any side effects (we've tried melatonin, amytriptiline, and prozac).
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