Monsieur Peresse always met the day with good-humored fatalism, accepting not only the decline of smoking, but the decline of drinking—the two staples of his business. When he started out in the 1960s, alcohol was a continuous ritual for many a French working man: coffee and calvados to start the day, maybe "le blanc," a glass of white wine later in the morning, l'apéro, or aperitif, before lunch, red wine with the meal, another calvados, another apéro in the afternoon, more red wine with dinner. He would laugh and shake his head, almost amazed at the memory. And then he would ask who was going to win the American elections. (He liked McCain.)